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Saunders Island
07th February 2010
Because we didn´t see King Penguins in Antarctica, we decided to fly to the Falkland Islands to try our luck. The treeless, windswept landscape reminded us of northern Scotland.
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Our first night was at Darwin Settlement (population 5) where we enjoyed a delicious home cooked meal.
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The following day we flew in a 7 passenger Islander aircraft to Saunders Island (population 7) with strong gusty winds blowing. We were driven to the other side of the island by 4 wheel drive and left alone for a 2 day stay in a little self catering cottage to enjoy the wildlife.
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We were not disappointed. Our first King Penguin was a vagrant, towering over a group of Magellans. On a clifftop walk, we spotted hundreds of Black Browed Albatross (wing span 2 metres) soaring overhead, and on closer inspection discovered fluffy fat chicks perched on exposed nests, waiting for a feed.
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Further along was a huge colony of Rockhopper Penguins with curious tufts of hair on their heads. They were also returning to their nests with food for their fluffy brown chicks. We spent all day exploring the rugged coastline, teeming with wildlife and we had it all to ourselves. Dinner was a lamb stew that we made from ingredients bought at the farm.
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Sea Lion Island
08th February 2010
Before the plane could land on Saunders Island to take us to Sea Lion Island, we had to chase the geese off the gravel landing strip in a 4×4.
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The wind sock was horizontal across the strip as we took off, only to land again 15 minutes later on Carcass Island to drop off 2 passengers. Next we landed at Pebble Island for more passengers, then a quick stop at Stanley airport and on to Sea Lion Island. (Map of Falklands)
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Jeff enjoyed himself in the copilots seat (he had flown a similar aircraft some 40 years earlier).
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Sea Lion Island is home to Sea Lions and Elephant Seals as well as Penguins and many birds. Because the sheep have been removed, the tussock grass has covered large parts of the island, giving protection to the smaller birds. We managed to cover the island on foot until gale force winds and rain forced us inside.
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Volunteer Point
09th February 2010
The highlight of our trip to the Falklands was the night we stayed in the Wardens house at Volunteer Point (Map of Falklands), where a large colony of some 800 breeding pairs of King Penguins live all year round. It was a two and a half hour drive over rough terrain from Stanley. Colonies of Gentoo and Magellan Penguins also live side by side with the grazing sheep.
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Derrick and Trudy are doing an amazing job as Wardens and welcomed us into their home as family. Once the day tourists left, the Penguins were ours. They were not shy and if we stood still, they would come right up close for a better look. We saw penguins on eggs, small babies still being watched over by parents, fluffy fat brown chicks in creches and moulting juveniles, even mating penguins.
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We have adopted a King Penguin and called him Eduardo. (Adopt a Penguin)
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Stanley
10th February 2010
Our last night was spent at pretty Stanley. We will have fond memories of the Falklands. Everywhere we stayed, the British hospitality was warm and welcoming. The “full English” breakfasts were a real treat. Falkland Islands Holidays arranged our trip. Everything went so smoothly.
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The islands are privately owned, where sheep and cattle live side by side with the wildlife. The owners have allowed tourists to come and stay and share it all.
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The pilots flying between the islands on a daily basis in such winds are real legends. They will still fly when the wind is too strong for the ferry to sail. The scariest part however, was the weigh in before boarding the flight.
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