Saunders Island

07th February 2010

Because we didn´t see  King Penguins in Antarctica, we decided to fly to the Falkland Islands to try our luck.  The treeless, windswept landscape reminded us of northern Scotland.

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Our first night was at Darwin Settlement (population 5) where we enjoyed a delicious home cooked meal.

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The following day we flew in a 7 passenger Islander aircraft to Saunders Island (population 7) with strong gusty winds blowing.  We were driven to the other side of the island by 4 wheel drive and left alone for a 2 day stay in a little self catering cottage to enjoy the wildlife.

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We were not disappointed.  Our first King Penguin was a vagrant, towering over a group of Magellans.  On a clifftop walk, we spotted hundreds of Black Browed Albatross (wing span 2 metres) soaring overhead, and on closer inspection discovered fluffy fat chicks perched on exposed nests, waiting for a feed.

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Further along was a huge colony of Rockhopper Penguins with curious tufts of hair on their heads.  They were also returning to their nests with food for their fluffy brown chicks.  We  spent all day exploring the rugged coastline, teeming with wildlife and we had it all to ourselves.  Dinner was a lamb stew that we  made from ingredients bought at the farm.

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Map of the Falklands

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Darwin House where we spent our first night

Darwin House where we spent our first night

We made 7 flights in the Islander

We made 7 flights in the Islander hopping between the islands

Saunders Island from the air

Saunders Island from the air

Rock Cormorants - mother and chick, plus egg

Rock Cormorants - mother and chick, plus egg

The isolated self catering hut at The Rookery

The isolated self catering hut at The Rookery

Magellan Penguin with chick, near their burrows

Magellan Penguin with moulting chick, near their burrows

Magallen Penguins on the beach

Magallan Penguins on the beach

Coming ashore

Coming ashore

Sea Cabbage growing on the sand dunes

Sea Cabbage growing on the sand dunes

The King Penguin with his little followers (Magellans)

The King Penguin with his little followers (Magellans)

Steamer Duck

Steamer Duck

Albatross - landing gear down

Albatross - landing gear down

Black Browed Albatross

Black Browed Albatross

The coastline of Saunders Island

The coastline of Saunders Island

Albatross & chick on mud nest

Albatross & chick on mud nest

Albatross taking advantage of the strong winds to soar

Albatross taking advantage of the strong winds to soar

King Cormorant

King Cormorant

A pair of Kelp Geese

A pair of Kelp Geese

Rockhopper

Rockhopper

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Rockhopper with chick

Rockhopper with chick

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Sheep and penguins live happily together

Sheep and penguins live happily together

One of the stoine corrals left from gaucho days

One of the stone corrals left from gaucho days

Saunders farm house

Saunders farm house


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Sea Lion Island

08th February 2010

Before the plane could land on Saunders Island to take us to Sea Lion Island, we had to chase the geese off the gravel landing strip in a 4×4.

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The wind sock was horizontal across the strip as we took off, only to land again 15 minutes later on Carcass Island to drop off 2 passengers.  Next we landed at Pebble Island for more passengers, then a quick stop at Stanley airport and on to Sea Lion Island.  (Map of Falklands)

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Jeff enjoyed himself in the copilots seat (he had flown a similar aircraft some 40 years earlier).

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Sea Lion Island is home to Sea Lions and Elephant Seals as well as Penguins and many birds.  Because the sheep have been removed, the tussock grass has covered large parts of the island, giving protection to the smaller birds.  We managed to cover the island on foot until gale force winds and rain forced us inside.

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Jeff is not flying the plane

Jeff is not flying the plane

The original farm house on the Island was made from a ship wreck

The original farm house on the Island was made from a ship wreck

Ruddy Headed Goose

Ruddy Headed Goose

a pair of Steamer Ducks

A pair of Steamer Ducks in the kelp

Gentoos making their way back to their nests

Gentoos making their way back to their nests

Gentoo baby is getting a bit too big

Gentoo baby is getting a bit too big

Gentoos

Gentoos

Magallan in the Tussock Grass

Magallans nest in the Tussock Grass

Oyster Catcher feeding

Oyster Catcher feeding

Skua with chick

Skua with chick

Vagrant King hunched against the wind

A vagrant King hunched against the wind

A pair of Upland Geese

A pair of Upland Geese

Male Upland

Male Upland

Female Upland

Female Upland

Baby geese

Baby geese

Baby Rockhopper Penguins in gale force winds

Baby Rockhopper Penguins in gale force winds

Old Rockhopper nests

Old Rockhopper nests

Rockhopper eyebrows in the wind

Rockhopper eyebrows in the wind

The Rockhoppers go down and up every day

The Rockhoppers go down and up every day

Cormorant trying to land in 50 knot winds

Cormorant trying to land in 50 knot winds

Magallan Snipe blends in

Magallan Snipe blends in

Male Elephant Seal

Male Elephant Seal .....

... yawning

... yawning

Eyeing a birdie

Eyeing a birdie

Female Elephant Seal

Yum

This one was moulting

This one was moulting

Sea Lion playing with her pups

Sea Lion playing with her pups


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Volunteer Point

09th February 2010

The highlight of our trip to the Falklands was the night we stayed in the Wardens house at Volunteer Point (Map of Falklands), where a large colony of some 800 breeding pairs of King Penguins live all year round.  It was a two and a half hour drive over rough terrain from Stanley.  Colonies of Gentoo and Magellan Penguins also live side by side with the grazing sheep.

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Derrick and Trudy are doing an amazing job as Wardens and welcomed us into their home as family.  Once the day tourists left, the Penguins were ours.  They were not shy and if we stood still, they would come right up close for a better look.  We saw penguins on eggs, small babies still being watched over by parents, fluffy fat brown chicks in creches and moulting juveniles, even mating penguins.

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We have adopted a King Penguin and called him Eduardo. (Adopt a Penguin)

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Eduardo - our adopted King Penguin

Eduardo - our adopted King Penguin

King protecting chick

King protecting chick

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Chicks - brown balls of fluff

Chicks - brown balls of fluff

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Fat juvenile King

Fat juvenile King

Moulting Kings

Moulting Kings

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Gentoos going fishing

Gentoos going fishing

Gentoo in the surf

Gentoo in the surf

Gentoo coming out of the surf

Gentoo coming out of the surf

Magallans at dawn

Magallans at dawn

The Wardens Hut at Volunteer Point

The Wardens Hut at Volunteer Point


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Stanley

10th February 2010

Our last night was spent at pretty Stanley.  We will have fond memories of the Falklands.  Everywhere we stayed, the British hospitality was warm and welcoming.  The “full English” breakfasts were a real treat.   Falkland Islands Holidays arranged our trip.  Everything went so smoothly.

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The islands are privately owned, where sheep and cattle live side by side with the wildlife.  The owners have allowed tourists to come and stay and share it all.

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The pilots flying between the islands on a daily basis in such winds are real legends.  They will still fly when the wind is too strong for the ferry to sail.  The scariest part however, was the weigh in before boarding the flight.

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Stanley from the air

Stanley from the air

Wreck of an old sailing ship

Wreck of an old sailing ship

Memorial for the 1982 Falklands War

Memorial for the 1982 Falklands War

The Governors Residence

The Governors Residence

The Falklands Island Company once owned the Islands

The Falklands Island Company once owned the Islands

Stanley looks very British

Stanley looks very British

Anglican Church

Anglican Church

Catholic Church

Catholic Church

The full English

The full English

There are many ship wrecks at Stanley

There are many ship wrecks at Stanley

Calm weather for a change

Calm weather for a change

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Seagull and reflection

Flying duck reflected in the calm waters

Flying duck reflected in the calm waters

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