Chilean Lake District

27th November 2009

Not being able to walk because of the bad weather, we headed north to Valdivia.   Here sea lions laze around on the banks of the river waiting for scraps from the nearby riverside fish market.

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A short ferry ride away is Corral with its old Spanish fort.

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We moved onto Pucón on Lago Villarica right at the foot of Volcan Villarica (2800 meters high).  The weather did not improve.  From here we visited a Mapuche village where we learnt about their culture and had a delicious traditional lunch of horse meat with puree of chestnuts and a soup made from pine kernel.

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The fish market at Valdivia

Birds and sea lions wait for scraps at the fish market at Valdivia

Sea lion and birds waiting for a feed at the fish market (Valdivia)

Sea lion and birds getting a feed

Sea lions on the river bank at Valdivia

Sea lions on the river bank at Valdivia

The old Spanish fort at Corral

The old Spanish fort at Corral

Volcan Villarica from Pucón

Volcan Villarica from Pucón - in bad weather

Mapuche woman by the fireplace

Mapuche woman by the fireplace

Traditional Mapuche weaving

Traditional Mapuche weaving

Macuche mask

Macuche mask

Back at Puerto Varas - Volcan Osorno on a better day

Back at Puerto Varas - Volcan Osorno on a better day

The fish market at Puerto Montt

The fish market at Puerto Montt

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Chiloé Island

19th November 2009

The island of Chiloé lies just off the coast of Chile and is accessed by barge from Puerto Montt. It is lovely and green and rains all the time.

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It is known for the many World Heritage wooden churches, some with pegs instead of nails. They were constructed by boat builders and are mostly located close to the coast facing the sea.

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The houses are covered with brightly painted wooden shingles and ox drawn ploughs can still be seen in use. Here they prepare an unusual dish of pork, chicken, vegetables and shell fish called curanto.

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Ancud is on the north west coast

Ancud is on the north west coast

The church at the small village of Quemchi

The church at the small village of Quemchi

Church at Dalcahue (1849)

Church at Dalcahue (1849)

P1020200

Simple small wayside church

Jeff trying hard to finish all his curanto

Jeff trying hard to finish all his curanto

World Heritage church of San Juan (1875)

World Heritage church of San Juan (1875)

Tenaún (1767)

Tenaún (1767)

At Calen

At Calen

Quetalco

Quetalco

Wooden sled, boat shaped pulled by oxen designed for the muddy conditions

Wooden sled, boat shaped and pulled by oxen, designed for the muddy conditions

The oldest of the churches at Achao

The oldest of the churches at Achao

Church at Llau Llao

Church at Llau Llao

Colourful fishing boats seen all around Chiloé

Colourful fishing boats seen all around Chiloé

The largest of the churches is being restored at Quinchao

The largest of the churches is being restored at Quinchao

At Chonchi

Chonchi

Necrón

Necrón

Unloading shell fish in the early morning

Unloading shell fish in the early morning

Puqueldón

Puqueldón

Ichuac

Ichuac

Vilapulli

Vilapulli

Palafitos on the estuary at Castro

Palafitos on the estuary at Castro

Cathedral at Castro covered with tin

Cathedral at Castro, covered with tin

The wooden interior of Castro´s cathedral

The wooden interior of Castro´s cathedral

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Crossing the Andes

15th November 2009

Leaving Argentina for the time being, we crossed the Andes into Chile via a series of lake crossings and bus transport over 2 days with an overnight in Peulla.

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The blowing snow made for a very nice lake crossing and we could still appreciate the high peaks all around us.

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The next day we arrived in Puerto Varas,  a pretty little town on Largo Llanquihue settled by Germans about 100 years ago.  Many of the houses are built with wooden shingles and there is a wonderful view of Volcan Osorno across the lake (on a good day).

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Leaving Puerto Pañuelo in Agrentina by boat

Leaving Puerto Pañuelo in Agrentina by boat

Lago Friás

Lago Friás

Snow in the rainforest at the Argentine/Chile border (at about 900m)

Snow in the rainforest at the Argentine/Chile border (at about 900m)

An overnight stop at Peulla

An overnight stop at Peulla

Waterfall into Lago Todos los Santos (or Emerald Lake for the green colour)

Waterfall into Lago Todos los Santos (also called the Emerald Lake for the green colour)

Cathedral at Puerto Varas

Cathedral at Puerto Varas

Wood shingled Lutheran Church - Puerto Varas

Wood shingled Lutheran Church - Puerto Varas

Wood shingled houses at Puerto Varas

Wood shingled houses at Puerto Varas

Volcan Osorno

Volcan Osorno

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Bariloche

09th November 2009

After a 20 hour bus ride from Buenos Aires, we arrived in Bariloche in the Argentine Lake District as it started to snow and it was summer.

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For a little bit extra we took the bus with beds and enjoyed the movies, meals and wine on the way.

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Jeff slept though the 11 pm glass of champagne on the bus

Jeff slept though the 11 pm glass of champagne on the bus

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bariloche on Lake Nahuel Huapi

Bariloche on Lake Nahuel Huapi

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Across the lake from Bariloche

Across the lake from Bariloche

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bariloche center - it was first settled by Germans

Bariloche center – it was first settled by Germans

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Church

Church

German influence

German influence

 

 

Kayaking on a nearby lake

Kayaking on a nearby lake

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We spent the weekend in the Delta north of Buenos Aires. First to Tigre by train, then by river ferry (the only way to travel) into the narrow channels amongst the islands. We stayed in a cabaña on stilts and spent the weekend kayaking and walking. The weeping trees hanging over the water and the lovely houses each with their private jetty made a pretty picture.

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Back in Buenos Aires, we are enjoying the many Italian restaurants and shops selling fresh pasta, sauces and freshly grated parmesan cheese (an easy meal which we have every second night). The pizzas here are smothered with cheese and delicious.

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The collectivo ferry between the islands

The collectivo ferry between the islands

Our cabaña on Isla Chamame

Our cabaña on Isla Chamame

View from the kayak

View from the kayak

One of the cute little houses along the river

One of the cute little houses along the river

The grocery boat comes by once a day

The grocery boat comes by once a day

Tigre

Tigre

Pirilo is a tiny bar without seats, tables or plates selling 3 different types of pizza by the slice (a slice of pizza and a glass of wine costs $2).  It has been there since 1930 and is usually packed.

Pirilo is a tiny bar without seats, tables or plates selling 3 different types of pizza by the slice (a slice of pizza and a glass of wine costs $2). It has been there since 1930 and is usually packed.

One of the tiled murals decorating the walls of the subway in Buenos Aires

One of the tiled murals decorating the walls of the subway in Buenos Aires

Still a few mothers march around the Plaza de Mayo every Thursday at 3:30 pm to protest their childrens disappearance over 30 years ago

Still a few mothers march around the Plaza de Mayo every Thursday at 3:30 pm to protest their childrens disappearance over 30 years ago

One of the many plaques in the pavements on Buenos Aires to rember those who dissapeared

One of the many plaques in the pavements on Buenos Aires to remember those who dissapeared

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