Ushuaia

31st December 2009

Back in Argentina, we spent a few days in Ushuaia, the most southerly city in the world.  It was founded as a penal colony and the prison, now a museum, shows the harsh conditions of the past.  The old prison steam train (Tren del Fin del Mundo) carries tourists along the valley to the Tierra del Fuego National Park.

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The history of the indigenous people from this area is particularly interesting as they traveled for long periods of time in large bark canoes completely naked rubbing their skin with seal fat to keep warm.  In the National Park, large mounds of their shells can still be seen along the coastline.

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The National Park is close to Ushuaia and has many wonderful walking trails.  We spent two days there and were lucky enough to spot a red fox and woodpeckers.

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Ushuaia by night

Ushuaia by night

Old steamship rotting in Ushuaia harbour

Old steamship rotting in Ushuaia harbour

Old photgraph of a Yamana couple in Ushuaia museum

Old photgraph of a Yamana couple in Ushuaia museum

Yamana girl beside canoe

Yamana girl beside canoe

Midden of shells from the Yamana people

Midden of shells from the Yamana people

Mural depicting the early prisoners of Ushuaia

Mural depicting the early prisoners of Ushuaia

View from our campsite in Tierra del Fuego NP

View from our campsite in Tierra del Fuego NP

Parasite on the tree

Edible parasite on the tree

A carpet of ground orchids in the forrest

A carpet of ground orchids in the forrest

Close up of orchid

Close up of orchid

Ibis

Ibis

Lago Roca, looking back from the Chilean border

Lago Roca, looking back from the Chilean border

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Antarctica – Where we went

31st December 2009

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To view where we anchored in Antartctica in Google Earth click (and open) :   Antarctica

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If you need to download Google Earth click:   Google Earth

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For the pictures click:  Pictures

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Antarctica Kayaking

29th December 2009

Click here for a slideshow of kayaking in the Antartic.

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Antarctic Christmas

28th December 2009

After 2 years of planning and saving we finally embarked on our Christmas voyage to the Antarctic peninsula.

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The weather and waves were kind to us as we crossed the infamous Drake Passage.  The Polar Pioneer with 51 passengers made good time and in 2 days we were able to make a landing on one of the islands of the South Shetland group.  We were greeted by colonies of noisy Chinstrap and Gentoo penguins who carried on as usual, some guarding eggs on rocky nest while the curious ones walked right up close for a better look.  We were lucky enough to glimpse a chick when its parent stood to change position, and 2 juveniles practicing the ritual of mating.  On each return to the ship we had to carefully scrub the penguin poo off our boots before we were allowed back inside.

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In more sheltered waters we were able to have many kayak excursions of 2 to 3 hours to see close up the huge ice bergs, ice cliffs, glaciers and wildlife.  We soon got used to donning all the warm clothing and dry suits before each outing.  We saw many humpback whales from the ship but the highlight was seeing one close to the kayak.  It was always cold, sometimes with an icy wind blowing and snow falling.

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One evening we were treated to a barbecue on the back  deck surrounded by snowy mountains.  Those brave enough had the opportunity to sleep one night ashore out in the open on the Antarctic ice while the ship moved away to more sheltered waters.  What magnificent surroundings we had.  During the night we were joined by a few penguins and 2 seals.  The sun never set.

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After a lovely Christmas lunch aboard ship inside the caldera of the Deception Island volcano, we began the 2 day journey back across the Drake Passage.  Our Russian captain looked at the weather chart and warned us of what was ahead – ¨big waves, rock and roll, sleep on floor¨.  The sea doors were closed and we were confined to the inside of the ship.  We could only watch from the bridge as huge waves crashed over the bow.  Many passengers lost their lunch.  It was a great relief to finally spot Cape Horn and return to the more sheltered waters of the Beagle Channel.

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From the bridge on the Polar Pioneer

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A pair of Gentoo Penguins

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Baby chick emerging from under the parent

Juveniles practicing

Juveniles practicing

Gentoos

Gentoos

Marching down to the sea

Marching down to the sea

Inquisitive penguin

Inquisitive penguin

Kayaking towards an iceberg

Kayaking towards an iceberg

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Santa arrives by kayak

Santa arrives by kayak

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In the slush

In the slush

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Three chinstrap penguins

Three chinstrap penguins

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Chinstrap on a rocky nest

Chinstrap on a rocky nest

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Two lone Adaile Penguins on an iceberg

Two lone Adaile Penguins on an iceberg

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Birds resting on an iceberg

Birds resting on an iceberg

Lemaire Channel

Lemaire Channel

Barbeque on the aft deck

Barbeque on the aft deck ...

... surrounded by mountains and snow

... surrounded by mountains and snow

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Whaler´s Bay was an old whaling port on Deception Island

Whaler´s Bay was a whaling port on Deception Island

Hanger at Whaler´s Bay

Disused hanger at Whaler´s Bay

Old whale oil barrels rotting in the sand

Old whale oil barrels rotting in the sand

Old water boat

Old water boat

Whale bones in the sand at Whaler´s Bay

Whale bones in the sand at Whaler´s Bay

Penguins looking at the seal

Penguins looking at the seal

Skua

Skua

Pam and the penguins

Pam and the penguins

Sleeping out on the Antarctic ice

Sleeping out on the Antarctic ice

Two cormorants preening

Two cormorants preening

Whale´s blow

Whale´s blow

Whale seen from the kayak

Whale seen from the kayak

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Xmas 2009 on the Polar Pioneer

Xmas 2009 on the Polar Pioneer

Drake Passage - big waves, rock and roll, sleep on floor

Drake Passage - big waves, rock and roll, sleep on floor

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Merry Christmas 2009

16th December 2009

To all our family and friends, Merry Christmas from the end of the world.

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From Pam and Jeff

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Tierra del Fuego

16th December 2009

From Puerto Natales we went by bus to Punta Arenas where we visited the penguin colony of Otway Sound.

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We boarded the Mare Australis for a 5 day expedition to Ushuaia, sailing down the Straits of Magellan, through the fjords of Tierra del Fuego and the Beagle Channel to Cape Horn.  We had many opportunities to go ashore by zodiac.  The weather and sea conditions were perfect.

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On a shore trip to Pia Glacier, whiskey with glacier ice was waiting for us.  That evening the boat sailed down Glacier Alley.  As we passed by German Glacier we were served German beer and sausages.  A short time later we passed French Glacier and out came the champagne and cheese.   Passing the Italian Glacier we had red wine and pizza, and the Holland Glacier it was Dutch beer and potato croquettes.

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Puerto Natales harbour

Puerto Natales harbour

Black neck swans

Black neck swans

Ñandu

Ñandu

Penguins of Seno Otway

Penguins of Seno Otway

Magellan penguin

Magellan penguin

Mother and chick

Mother and chick

Discarded mussel shells among coastal flowers

Discarded mussel shells among coastal flowers

The Mare Australis

The Mare Australis

Baby seal sunning itself

Baby seal sunning itself

Skua landing

Skua landing

Rock cormorant on a cliff top nest

Rock cormorant on a cliff top nest

Pia Glacier

Pia Glacier

Sailing down Glacier Alley in the evening

Sailing down Glacier Alley in the evening

The albatros monument on Cape Horn Island for the sailors who lost their lives here

The albatros monument on Cape Horn Island for the sailors who lost their lives here

A spectacular sunset for the last night of our cruise

A spectacular sunset for the last night of our cruise

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Torres del Paine National Park

10th December 2009

Before we set off for 8 days hiking in the Torres del Paine National Park, we were warned that the Patagonia weather can change in an instant and that strong gusts of cold wind can come out of nowhere to blow someone over.  The forecast is always the same – variable!

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We were fortunate to have perfect weather.

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We camped in some amazing places, the mountain scenery breathtaking.

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Our campsite in the valley below the Torres (Towers)

Our campsite in the valley below the Torres (Towers)

5 hours walking later

5 hours walking later

The path up the valley

The path up the valley

The valley

The valley

Wildflowers beside the path

Wildflowers beside the path

Wild fox

Wild fox

Guanaco

Guanaco

Los Cuernos (Horns)

Los Cuernos (Horns)

Cuernos from the Valle Frances

Cuernos from the Valle Frances

Mother duck giving swimming lessons

Mother duck giving swimming lessons

More wildflowers

More wildflowers

Blue lakes

Blue lakes

Snow covered mountains in Valle Frances

Snow covered mountains in Valle Frances

Bright red flowers cover the slopes

Bright red flowers cover the slopes

A pair of ducks on the path

A pair of geese on the path

From Valle Frances

Looking back

Shady path

Shady path

How to get water from the lake without getting wet feet

How to get water from the lake without getting wet feet

Glacier Grey

Glacier Grey

Closer to the Glacier Grey

Closer to the Glacier Grey

Laguna Los Patos

Laguna Los Patos

Sunrise over Lago Grey

Sunrise over Lago Grey

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Chilean Fjords

01st December 2009

From Puerto Montt we sailed south on the weekly Navimag cargo ferry for 4 days between the islands of southern Chile to Puerto Natales.

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At first we had calm conditions and enjoyed great food and wine.  On the 2nd day we reached the open ocean and were seasick for the next 12 hours.  We woke to a better 3rd day back inside the fjords with an hour ashore visiting little Puerto Edén, then right up close to the Pio XI glacier (the largest in South America).

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What a wonderful experience it was and we were sorry to have to disembark in Puerto Natales.  We were free to walk all over the ship, including the bridge.  The weather was crazy, sun, snow, wind, hail, rain all within hours and cold.

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The Navimag Ferry

The Navimag Ferry

Great salmon and plenty of it!

Great salmon and plenty of it!

Leaving Puerto Montt behind

Leaving Puerto Montt behind

Sunset at sea

Sunset at sea

From the bridge as the weather worsens

From the bridge as the weather worsens

This ship hit the only rock in the channel

This ship hit the only rock in the channel

Fresh snow on the peaks all around

Fresh snow on the peaks all around

Puerto Eden without a port

Puerto Eden without a port

Pio XI Glacier - just a small part of it A small section of Pio XI Glacier blending in with the falling snow
Weather changes rapidly

Weather changes rapidly

Enroute

Enroute

Approaching Puerto Natales

Approaching Puerto Natales

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