Crossing the Andes

15th November 2009

Leaving Argentina for the time being, we crossed the Andes into Chile via a series of lake crossings and bus transport over 2 days with an overnight in Peulla.

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The blowing snow made for a very nice lake crossing and we could still appreciate the high peaks all around us.

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The next day we arrived in Puerto Varas,  a pretty little town on Largo Llanquihue settled by Germans about 100 years ago.  Many of the houses are built with wooden shingles and there is a wonderful view of Volcan Osorno across the lake (on a good day).

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Leaving Puerto Pañuelo in Agrentina by boat

Leaving Puerto Pañuelo in Agrentina by boat

Lago Friás

Lago Friás

Snow in the rainforest at the Argentine/Chile border (at about 900m)

Snow in the rainforest at the Argentine/Chile border (at about 900m)

An overnight stop at Peulla

An overnight stop at Peulla

Waterfall into Lago Todos los Santos (or Emerald Lake for the green colour)

Waterfall into Lago Todos los Santos (also called the Emerald Lake for the green colour)

Cathedral at Puerto Varas

Cathedral at Puerto Varas

Wood shingled Lutheran Church - Puerto Varas

Wood shingled Lutheran Church - Puerto Varas

Wood shingled houses at Puerto Varas

Wood shingled houses at Puerto Varas

Volcan Osorno

Volcan Osorno

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Chiloé Island

19th November 2009

The island of Chiloé lies just off the coast of Chile and is accessed by barge from Puerto Montt. It is lovely and green and rains all the time.

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It is known for the many World Heritage wooden churches, some with pegs instead of nails. They were constructed by boat builders and are mostly located close to the coast facing the sea.

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The houses are covered with brightly painted wooden shingles and ox drawn ploughs can still be seen in use. Here they prepare an unusual dish of pork, chicken, vegetables and shell fish called curanto.

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Ancud is on the north west coast

Ancud is on the north west coast

The church at the small village of Quemchi

The church at the small village of Quemchi

Church at Dalcahue (1849)

Church at Dalcahue (1849)

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Simple small wayside church

Jeff trying hard to finish all his curanto

Jeff trying hard to finish all his curanto

World Heritage church of San Juan (1875)

World Heritage church of San Juan (1875)

Tenaún (1767)

Tenaún (1767)

At Calen

At Calen

Quetalco

Quetalco

Wooden sled, boat shaped pulled by oxen designed for the muddy conditions

Wooden sled, boat shaped and pulled by oxen, designed for the muddy conditions

The oldest of the churches at Achao

The oldest of the churches at Achao

Church at Llau Llao

Church at Llau Llao

Colourful fishing boats seen all around Chiloé

Colourful fishing boats seen all around Chiloé

The largest of the churches is being restored at Quinchao

The largest of the churches is being restored at Quinchao

At Chonchi

Chonchi

Necrón

Necrón

Unloading shell fish in the early morning

Unloading shell fish in the early morning

Puqueldón

Puqueldón

Ichuac

Ichuac

Vilapulli

Vilapulli

Palafitos on the estuary at Castro

Palafitos on the estuary at Castro

Cathedral at Castro covered with tin

Cathedral at Castro, covered with tin

The wooden interior of Castro´s cathedral

The wooden interior of Castro´s cathedral

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Chilean Lake District

27th November 2009

Not being able to walk because of the bad weather, we headed north to Valdivia.   Here sea lions laze around on the banks of the river waiting for scraps from the nearby riverside fish market.

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A short ferry ride away is Corral with its old Spanish fort.

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We moved onto Pucón on Lago Villarica right at the foot of Volcan Villarica (2800 meters high).  The weather did not improve.  From here we visited a Mapuche village where we learnt about their culture and had a delicious traditional lunch of horse meat with puree of chestnuts and a soup made from pine kernel.

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The fish market at Valdivia

Birds and sea lions wait for scraps at the fish market at Valdivia

Sea lion and birds waiting for a feed at the fish market (Valdivia)

Sea lion and birds getting a feed

Sea lions on the river bank at Valdivia

Sea lions on the river bank at Valdivia

The old Spanish fort at Corral

The old Spanish fort at Corral

Volcan Villarica from Pucón

Volcan Villarica from Pucón - in bad weather

Mapuche woman by the fireplace

Mapuche woman by the fireplace

Traditional Mapuche weaving

Traditional Mapuche weaving

Macuche mask

Macuche mask

Back at Puerto Varas - Volcan Osorno on a better day

Back at Puerto Varas - Volcan Osorno on a better day

The fish market at Puerto Montt

The fish market at Puerto Montt

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Chilean Fjords

01st December 2009

From Puerto Montt we sailed south on the weekly Navimag cargo ferry for 4 days between the islands of southern Chile to Puerto Natales.

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At first we had calm conditions and enjoyed great food and wine.  On the 2nd day we reached the open ocean and were seasick for the next 12 hours.  We woke to a better 3rd day back inside the fjords with an hour ashore visiting little Puerto Edén, then right up close to the Pio XI glacier (the largest in South America).

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What a wonderful experience it was and we were sorry to have to disembark in Puerto Natales.  We were free to walk all over the ship, including the bridge.  The weather was crazy, sun, snow, wind, hail, rain all within hours and cold.

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The Navimag Ferry

The Navimag Ferry

Great salmon and plenty of it!

Great salmon and plenty of it!

Leaving Puerto Montt behind

Leaving Puerto Montt behind

Sunset at sea

Sunset at sea

From the bridge as the weather worsens

From the bridge as the weather worsens

This ship hit the only rock in the channel

This ship hit the only rock in the channel

Fresh snow on the peaks all around

Fresh snow on the peaks all around

Puerto Eden without a port

Puerto Eden without a port

Pio XI Glacier - just a small part of it A small section of Pio XI Glacier blending in with the falling snow
Weather changes rapidly

Weather changes rapidly

Enroute

Enroute

Approaching Puerto Natales

Approaching Puerto Natales

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Torres del Paine National Park

10th December 2009

Before we set off for 8 days hiking in the Torres del Paine National Park, we were warned that the Patagonia weather can change in an instant and that strong gusts of cold wind can come out of nowhere to blow someone over.  The forecast is always the same – variable!

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We were fortunate to have perfect weather.

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We camped in some amazing places, the mountain scenery breathtaking.

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Our campsite in the valley below the Torres (Towers)

Our campsite in the valley below the Torres (Towers)

5 hours walking later

5 hours walking later

The path up the valley

The path up the valley

The valley

The valley

Wildflowers beside the path

Wildflowers beside the path

Wild fox

Wild fox

Guanaco

Guanaco

Los Cuernos (Horns)

Los Cuernos (Horns)

Cuernos from the Valle Frances

Cuernos from the Valle Frances

Mother duck giving swimming lessons

Mother duck giving swimming lessons

More wildflowers

More wildflowers

Blue lakes

Blue lakes

Snow covered mountains in Valle Frances

Snow covered mountains in Valle Frances

Bright red flowers cover the slopes

Bright red flowers cover the slopes

A pair of ducks on the path

A pair of geese on the path

From Valle Frances

Looking back

Shady path

Shady path

How to get water from the lake without getting wet feet

How to get water from the lake without getting wet feet

Glacier Grey

Glacier Grey

Closer to the Glacier Grey

Closer to the Glacier Grey

Laguna Los Patos

Laguna Los Patos

Sunrise over Lago Grey

Sunrise over Lago Grey

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Tierra del Fuego

16th December 2009

From Puerto Natales we went by bus to Punta Arenas where we visited the penguin colony of Otway Sound.

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We boarded the Mare Australis for a 5 day expedition to Ushuaia, sailing down the Straits of Magellan, through the fjords of Tierra del Fuego and the Beagle Channel to Cape Horn.  We had many opportunities to go ashore by zodiac.  The weather and sea conditions were perfect.

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On a shore trip to Pia Glacier, whiskey with glacier ice was waiting for us.  That evening the boat sailed down Glacier Alley.  As we passed by German Glacier we were served German beer and sausages.  A short time later we passed French Glacier and out came the champagne and cheese.   Passing the Italian Glacier we had red wine and pizza, and the Holland Glacier it was Dutch beer and potato croquettes.

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Puerto Natales harbour

Puerto Natales harbour

Black neck swans

Black neck swans

Ñandu

Ñandu

Penguins of Seno Otway

Penguins of Seno Otway

Magellan penguin

Magellan penguin

Mother and chick

Mother and chick

Discarded mussel shells among coastal flowers

Discarded mussel shells among coastal flowers

The Mare Australis

The Mare Australis

Baby seal sunning itself

Baby seal sunning itself

Skua landing

Skua landing

Rock cormorant on a cliff top nest

Rock cormorant on a cliff top nest

Pia Glacier

Pia Glacier

Sailing down Glacier Alley in the evening

Sailing down Glacier Alley in the evening

The albatros monument on Cape Horn Island for the sailors who lost their lives here

The albatros monument on Cape Horn Island for the sailors who lost their lives here

A spectacular sunset for the last night of our cruise

A spectacular sunset for the last night of our cruise

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Santiago

11th February 2010

Santiago is a pleasant city to spend a few days, with some leafy cobbled streets and interesting buildings.   We were able to catch some street theatre, where a giant wooden puppet performed for the crowds.

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There are vineyards to the south, easily accessable by public transport.  We visited Concha y Toro as we have sampled a lot of of their Casillero de Diablo wines in Australia.  We like the legend that the devil lives in the cellar.  The owner started the rumour many years ago in order to stop his workers from stealing his best wines, worked too.

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Downtown Santiago from

Downtown Santiago

Statue of the Virgin on Cerro San Cristobel

Statue of the Virgin on Cerro San Cristobel

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The little giant (puppet)

The little giant (puppet)

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Concha y Toro vinyard

Concha y Toro vinyard

Grapes for the best wines are grown here

Grapes for the best wines are grown here

El diablo in the cellar

El diablo in the cellar

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Easter Island (Isla de Pascua)

18th February 2010

We made a last minute decision to visit Easter Island during their annual Tapati Rapa Nui Festival, and on arrival became caught up in  a parade of half naked, decorated islanders.

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To see for ourselves those giant statues (Moai) was really something, and on a visit to the volcano quarry many unfinished heads could be seen scattered about.  There are some 800 around the island ranging from 2 metres to 21 metres high.

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The laid back capital Hanga Roa has no high rise buildings and it is not unusual to see people riding horses through town.  The fat fried empanadas stuffed with fresh tuna and cheese were irresistible.

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Moai at sunset

Moai at dawn

Hanga Roa town - main street

Hanga Roa town - main street

Tapati Rapa Nui festival body painting competition

Tapati Rapa Nui festival body painting competition

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Sunset over the water

Sunset over the water

All the Moai (except 7) faced inland towards the villages

All the Moai (except 7) faced inland towards the villages

Once the eyes (made of coral) were in place, the Moai became alive

Once the eyes (made of coral) were in place, the Moai became alive

Maoi abandoned at the quarry

Moai abandoned at the quarry

Volcano quarry where the Maoi were carved

Volcano quarry where the Moai were carved

The largest Maoi at 21 meters long, lies half finished

The largest Moai at 21 meters high, lies half finished

The statues were carved leaving a keel which was later removed

The statues were carved leaving a keel which was later removed

Still unfinished

Still unfinished

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The only kneeling Moai

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Cutting made in the rim of the volcano to get the statues out

Cutting made in the rim of the volcano to get the statues out

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The red top knots were a later style

The red top knots were a later style

Rear view

Rear view - the platforms they sat on were altars

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The crater of one of the many extinct volcanoes on the island

The crater of one of the many extinct volcanoes on the island

Petroglyph on a rock at Orongo ceremonial village

Petroglyph on a rock at Orongo ceremonial village

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Can this platform be made by the Incas?

Could The Incas have made this platform?

All the Moai were destroyed in the 19th centuary, not all have been restored

All the Moai were destroyed in the 19th centuary, not all have been restored

Folk dancing reminds us that this is Chile after all

Folk dancing reminds us that this is Chile after all

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Viñas de Chile

26th February 2010

Most of the wine of Chile is produced in the valleys within a few hours drive of Santiago.  85% of Chile´s wine is exported, and almost all the good stuff.  If you want to try excellent Chilean wines you need to go to the wineries.

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So we headed south to began our tasting in the Maule Valley around Talca, then moved on to the Colchagua Valley centered on Santa Cruz. These valleys are famous for their red wines, especially Cabernet Sauvignon and Carménère. The vines were full of fruit, ready to be picked in about 2 weeks. One winery (Viña Gillmore) started the tour with a tasting the various grape varieties growing in the vineyard, before moving on to sample the finished wines.

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The Casablanca Valley, northwest of Santiago, produces some excellent white wines. We tasted some great Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay as well as a beautiful Pinot Noir at Viña Casas del Bosque.

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Viña Gillmore, near Talca (Maule Valley)

Viña Gillmore, near Talca (Maule Valley)

The grapes are starting to ripen in February

The grapes are starting to ripen in February

Tasting the grapes in the vineyard before moving on to the wines

Tasting the grapes in the vineyard

Viña Balduzzi in San Javier (Maule Valley)

Viña Balduzzi in San Javier (Maule Valley)

Church at Santa Cruz

Church at Santa Cruz

Colonial building in Santa Cruz

Colonial building in Santa Cruz

Viña Viu Manent (Colchagua Valley)

Entrance to Viña Viu Manent (Colchagua Valley)

Viña Viu Manent offers horse drawn carriage tours

Viña Viu Manent offers horse drawn carriage tours

Viña Las Niñas - all female winery in the Colchagua Valley

Viña Las Niñas - all female winery in the Colchagua Valley

Viña Casas del Bosque (Casablanca Valley)

Viña Casas del Bosque (Casablanca Valley)

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