Basque Country Walks

Basque Coast

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Bermeo to Bakio

Sunday 11 June 2023

Distance: 14.1 km Time: 4:00 Ascent: 400m Descent: 400m – Wikiloc

After arriving in Bermeo having walked from Oyón along the Wine and Fish Route (here) we wanted to see the island sanctuary of Gaztelugatxe. So we walked from Bermeo via the Matxitxako lighthouse and then to Bakio where we caught a bus to Bilbao.

Matxitxako lighthouse, inaugurated in 1852 and was in operation until 1909
San Juan de Gaztelugatxe – the island fortress of “Dragonstone” from Game of Thrones. In Basque it means “Castle rock”
The island is connected to the mainland by a man-made stone bridge transitioning to a narrow path of 241 steps to the Chapel on top
The Chapel was first built in the 9th century and has been attacked many times, including by Sir Francis Drake in the 16th century. The latest reconstruction was in 1983 after a fire
Raincoats on as we walk to Bakio

Bilbao

Monday 12 June 2023

Distance: 14.1 km Time: 3:00 Ascent: 0m Descent: 0m – Wikiloc

For our day in Bilbao, we took the Metro to Portugalete at the mouth of the Nervion River and walked back along the River bank.

Vizcaya Bridge is a transporter bridge, built in 1893, that links both sides of the Nervión River at Portugalete
The gondola goes back and forth taking cars and people across
Portugalete was founded in 1322 on the Bilbao Estuary
The name means “the banks of the port”, and refers to the houses located on the banks of the Nervión
Old factories along the River Nervión played an important role in Bilbao’s past
The Guggenheim Museum has led to a rejuvenation of the city, visited by over a million people each year
River Nervión winding through the centre of Bilbao

Bilbao – Elantxobe – Lekeitio

Tuesday 13 June 2023

We intended to walk the 20 km from Elantxobe to Lekeitio but it has over 2,000 vertical meters so decided we needed a rest and took a bus.

Elantxobe is rated as the most beautiful village on the Basque Coast. Its streets in are so narrow and steep the bus uses a revolving platform to turn around.

Bus turning around in Elantxobe
Looking down on Elantxobe from the upper town 80m above
In 1783, several seawalls were built to protect the port
The Elantxobe houses face the sea seemingly looking for the fishermen to return
Lekeitio is a town with a long fishing tradition
Only at low tide is it possible to walk out to the Island of San Nicolás at Lekeitio

Deba to Zumaia

Wednesday 14 June 2023

Distance: 14.7 km Time: 5:20 Ascent: 620m Descent: 620m – Wikiloc

The Basque Coast Geopark between Deba and Zumaia is an area of flysch cliffs in which hard layers and soft layers of rock alternate vertically. It’s not an easy walk with over 600m ascending and 600m descending; the down harder than the up but the tidal rock formations are spectacular and you can only see them by walking there.

After Zumaia we took a bus 10 minutes to Getaria the birthplace of Juan Sebastián Elcano, the first man to circumnavigate the world (Magellan was killed in the Philippines).

Deba to Zumaia profile
The day starts with a climb up an old Roman road out of Deba
Since 1554 the Chapel of Santa Katalina has overlooked the Geopark
Flysh – alternating layers of rock is only visible at low tide
Two hours later this would be under water, we were lucky to time it right
The layers of rock extend from below the sea up into the cliffs
Steep rough path, slow going
Limestone has gradually been eroded making valleys and leaving mountains of a similar height where only oak trees survive on the steep slopes
There’s no flat along the Basque Coast and it rains, a lot
Ondarrabi Zuri white grape variety is used to produce Getaria txakoli
Txakolí is a young, fruity white wine with moderate alcohol content
Church of San Salvador in Getaria dates from at least the 14th century
The Katrapona Passageway goes through the church to connect the old town with the fishing port
Fish are grilled over a wood fire in the street outside the restaurants
This tow truck driver had better luck than the fishermen last night!

Getaria to San Sebastian

Thursday 15 June 2023

A pleasant 5 km walk along the promenade that connects Getaria to Zarautz allowed us to catch the train to San Sebastian.

Zarautz has a tidal range of 4.5 meters – this is at low tide
First stop in San Sebastian a Sidreria for local cider from the barrel
The cider here is different as it’s not fizzy: bubbles are introduced as part of the pouring process

San Sebastian

Friday 16 June 2023

A rest day in San Sebastian. And we really did rest!

Port of San Sebastian
Basque cheesecake – burnt on top, soft inside, no base, delicious
When in San Sebastian eat pintxos with your txakoli (Basque wine)