In 1522, Saint Ignatius of Loyola (founder of the Jesuits) embarked on a 640km pilgrim route from his home in Spain’s Basque country to Manresa near the Monastery of Montserrat, in Catalonia. Link to Ignatian Way website.
We’ve been to most of the Jesuit missions in South America (here).
We’ll walk from Loyola to Laguardia having already walked the reverse from Montserrat to Navarrete along the Camino Catalan in February 2012 (here).
San Sebastian to Loyola
Saturday 17 June 2023
We took a bus from San Sebastian to Loyola where the Camino Ignaciano begins.
Walking from the bus stop, then suddenly … the Loyola Basilica The Basilica was erected in the 17th century at the birthplace of Saint Ignatius
Mostly along a Rail Trail easy uphill walking, it was a day of bridges and tunnels – so many we lost count!. The train originally ran from Zumaia on the coast following the Urola River for 36 km to Legazpi. Opened in 1926, it lasted until 1988 still using the original trains on the original tracks.
Loyola to Zumárraga profileAzkoitia on the Urola River about 4 km from Loyola The Via Verde (Rail Trail) follows the Urola River …… crossing the River many times …… and passing through many tunnels Definitely going uphillWe stopped at the San Augustin Bar for a halfway coffeeChurch of the Assumption (Zumarraga), construction began 1576 in the Gothic-Basque style; accessed through a wide portico supported by semicircular arches
We left Zumárraga early with a good forecast, fog followed by sunshine. 30 minutes later it was raining. We stopped at a cafe in Legazpi to consider the options, crossing a 1,200 meter mountain in the rain not one.
The rain cleared and we walked. It was an easy climb for about 10 km but then the gradient increased dramatically. At one stage it took us an hour to go one kilometer into a strong headwind, a very hard day.
Zumárraga to Arantzazu profileParish Church of Legazpi, early 18th century, has a large portico on 3 sidesA simple 19th century Chapel devoted to Saint John in a village along the wayAfter about 10 km the path climbs through pine forestsLooking back towards Legazpi which we had left 3 hours before We need to cross the scree into a strong wind to reach the pass Resting at the top (1,200 meters) when two horses came to see what’s going on “We thank the mountain for the good climb it has provided for us”We begin the long slow descentSuddenly, the Sanctuary of Arantzazu The original sanctuary was built on the site where a local shepherd discovered an image of the Virgin Mary in 1468. The new basilica was constructed in the 1950s, the artists and architects given considerable freedom in design.
Today was moderately hard but much easier than yesterday, most of the climbing in the first 4 km when we were fresh. Then it’s a beautiful walk across the Basque Highlands. Heavy rain overnight made for a muddy path slowing the descent. There’s no accommodation at Araia, the end of this stage, so we continued on the the Andamur Hotel on the highway at San Román.
Arantzazu to Araia profileIt was foggy when we left the Sanctuary but we soon climbed into the clearIn the meadow at 1150 meters, a tree lined pathBasque Highlands are a European Destination of Excellence – beautiful A vulture has its eye on us as we walk pastRemote shepherd’s huts in the mountains Monoliths and Dolmens, evidence of a long human settlement The sound of horses bells ring out across the mountainsAfter heavy rain the previous night, a slow muddy descentSome of the old Roman Road through the mountains Locals at the bar in the shade of the 15th century St. Peter’s Church in Araia
Another hard climb to start the day, about 500 meters in 5 km which took us 2 hours through a lot of mud after the rain last night. There’s no restaurants or shops on the next two stages so we’re carrying food, and wine for two days. Nevertheless the cloud forest at 1,000m is worth the effort.
San Román to Alda ProfileTree-hut with a ladder, used by hunters to shoot pigeonsCan’t decide if it’s harder going uphill or downhill in mudWell…. the gate was supposed to be openWalking through the cloud forest at 1,000 meters there’s no sounds – no horse, cows or sheep bells and no birdsAnd trees develop strange shapes and funguses The path closely follows “The Balcony”; great care needed especially in fogWildflowers cover the rocky ground After descending to 800m, Ullíbarri-Arana which dates back to post-Roman timesChurch of Saint Peter in Alda, from 1600
A much easier day, more down than up. Today we passed through 4 small villages each with their large 16th century Church.
Alda to Genevilla profileSan Vicente de Arana – 16th century Church of Saint Vincent Carranzana Sheep is a very old Basque sheep breed – Their unpasteurized milk is used to make traditional Idiazabal Cheese Orbiso with its 16th century Church has been a transit place since Roman timesChurch of the Assumption of Our Lady, Santa Cruz de Campezo Its the most important portal, advanced Gothic from the early 16th century White, red, yellow marks lead us through the forest to Genevilla Parish church of San Esteban in Genevilla was built in the year 1200 and modified in the 16th century
Stage 6 of Camino Ignaciano is 27.5 km from Genevilla to Laguardia, too far for us. We stopped after 16 km at Kripan having done most of the climbing and descending and took a bus to Laguardia.
Genevilla to Laguardia profile Village of Cabredo below the Cantabrian Mountains Medieval streets in the mountain villages follow the contours 17th century relief of Santiago Matamoros (Saint James the Moor Killer) on the church door at Cabredo – the Moors had already been defeated over 100 years before this was carvedOur last big climb – 250 meters up from Cabredo to Lapoblación in 3 kmThere’s more people in Lapoblación cemetery than in the town13th century Church in Lapoblación with house built onto one endThere’s lots of butterflies in the mountains Resting in front of a butterflies mural at Meano (900m)We made sure to arrive in Meano when the Domaica Bakery was open With a long family tradition, the famous Meano hard crumb bread; as well as home-made chorizo – bought one of eachDescending below the Cantabrian Mountains we had crossed 3 weeks ago heading north on the Wine and Fish RoutePilgrim stamps from Loyola to Laguardia
