October 23, 2015
The Alpujarra is a region in Andalucía lying south-east of Granada on the southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada and with an average elevation of 1,300 meters. Its 52 villages, which still display their Berber origins today, were the last stronghold of the Moors, finally expelled in 1568.
Our plan – to walk from Lanjarón on the western edge to Laroles in the east following the GR7 footpath. Click here for a map if the GR7 in Granada.
Lanjarón to Soportújar 12.4 klms, 5 hours
What a day. We climbed steeply, crossed high plains where we picked wild herbs, the village of Orgiva visible in the valley far below. In the bar at the halfway pueblo, Cañar, we discovered a local author had written the book El Cartero del Desierto (The Desert Postman) so Pam bought a copy.
We could see Soportújar across the valley but it was still a 2 hour hike away along a narrow, centuries old path to the head of the valley and back. Soportújar calls itself Lugar de Embrujo (Enchanted Place) – a lovely small village; so steep that houses are built over roads. Enchanted for sure, Paco the owner of Apartamentos La Huerta where we stayed bought us olive oil from his trees outside our windows and a bottle of his own delicious wine from his grape vines below. The overhanging balcony gave us spectacular views of the pueblos below with the mountains behind.
Sunrise leaving Antequera
Moorish Castillo de Lanjarón
Lanjarón is a leafy town, famed since Roman times for its water
Climbing out of Lanjarón
Looking back at Lanjarón
Gathering chestnuts
The mountains smell of rosemary so we picked wild herbs for our breakfast omelette
Cañar - we're halfway
Fountain at Cañar - no bathing allowed
Path to Soportújar
Weir built to control erosion on the Chico River
Path follows an old acequia (water channel)
Soportújar
Soportújar streets are so steep that the houses are built over them
Soportújar to Pitres 11.9 klms, 4 hours
Another great walk along some wonderful old paths, although overgrown in places – hard going too with over 900 meters of up and 600 meters of down. The trail took us through the prettiest of the villages, Pampaneira, onto Bubión and over a 1560m mountain pass before descending to Pitres.
Carataunas hamlet 200 meters below Soportújar
Along the trail to Pampaneira and Bubión on the next ridge
It's chestnut season
Old paved path down into Pampaneira but ...
... overgrown in places
Pampaneira - typical flat roofs and chimneys
Street in Pampaneira, the prettiest of the villages
Pampaneira is famous for its crafts
Pampaneira church built over a mosque
Another street in Pampaneira with houses built on top
Terraces between Pampaneira and Bubión
Path from Pampaneira to Bubión, a 300 meter climb
Pam waiting patiently at Bubión
Hope the water is OK to drink!
Path to the 1560m pass
Bubión from the pass
Chimneys on the roof - Pitres
Local Pitres wine - looks like cordial, tastes fine and packs a punch
Alpujarreño lunch - ham, pork, eggs, potatoes and sausages
Walking around Pitres
Instead of spending the day walking around La Taha villages near Pitres as planned, we stayed inside in the warmth. It rained steadily all day.
A wet day in Pitres - not much chance of drying those clothes!