Mexican encore 2014 & 2024

Oaxaca 2024

Thursday 20 June 2024

Wednesday was taken up with a 5 hour bus ride from Puebla. Oaxaca is fabulous colonial city with a strong Zapotec indigenous culture. Here is our 2014 blog and here is 2011.

Buying Zapotes, a sweet tasting fruit common in Mexico
Street art
Temple of Santo Domingo, an example of New Spain baroque architecture from 1551
Church of the Company of Jesus originally built in 1579 has suffered numerous earthquake damages and rebuilds
Temple of Our Lady of the Snows, founded at the end of the 16th century, rebuilt in the 18th century
Our Lady of Guadalupe dates back to 1644
Restaurant inside, street food outside
Grinding the spices for mole

Click the image below to watch the mole grinding video!

Mole grinding video
Chocolate fresh out of the grinder
Real hot chocolate!
Oaxaca market guarded by the tower of San Juan de Dios
BBQ inside the market
Meat, tortillas, onions, peppers and nopal (cactus)
A stack of Tlayudas
Tlayudas, traditional Oaxacan cuisine consisting of a large, thin, crunchy tortilla covered with refried beans, lettuce, shredded meat, Oaxaca cheese, and salsa declared Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO
Another way to eat tlayudas – with mole and fresh cheese, open faced
Oaxaca cheese, a semihard, low-fat cheese with a texture similar to mozzarella
A selection of chillies each with a unique taste
Guelaguetza, traditional indigenous cultural event, doesn’t officially start for another month but some groups are already celebrating
This group is dressed in multicolored rags
Rain doesn’t stop the dancing

Friday 21 June 2024

We organized a cooking class and mescal tasting through Dianzúu Travel. It was in Teotitlán del Valle, a Zapotec village about 40 minutes from Oaxaca.

Shopping for mole ingredients at Teotitlan market
Lady selling nopal (cactus) in the market
We’ll need Oaxaca cheese for our quesadillas
Church of the Precious Blood of Christ, a colonial Catholic church built on an ancient Zapotec religious site
Mole prep
Chef Rosaria cooking chillies on the comal
Aunty making the dough for tortillas, everything by hand from raw ingredients
Katie making quesadillas filled with cheese and zucchini flowers
Mole bubbling away
Rosaria serving up the delicious mole on chicken with rice. It was a wonderful day and a great experience

After cooking and eating we continued to Mezcal Don Agave to learn about the mescal production and to try a few.

Mescal tasting line up

Saturday 22 June 2024

We spent the morning wandering around Barrio Mágico of Jalatlaco admiring the street art.

Walking into the centre in the afternoon we passed a wedding with singing and dancing unlike any we’ve seen outside the church.

Wedding dance features a turkey…
… and men on stilts

Then on our way to dinner we happened upon a large crowd of happy people with Giant figures and Fireworks Bulls.

A Giant figure leads the band and the crowds
Bull in a shopping trolley filled with mescal and beer
Fireworks Bull before being lit

Click the image below to watch the Fireworks Bulls video!

Video of the Fireworks Bulls
For dinner – mole negro on chicken with rice

Sunday 23 June 2024

Tlacolula Sunday market, 40 minutes east from Oaxaca, is the oldest in Mesoamerica and one of the largest and busiest in the Central Valleys with over 1,000 stalls. Mostly selling food and necessities for the rural people, it’s been an important meeting place for traders and farmers since pre-Hispanic times.

The Market has built up around the 16th-century Dominican church
Tlacolula Market BBQ
Greens have been sold here for centuries…
…likewise vegetables
Made to order quesadillas
Enjoying tamales