Day 37 Mon 28 Apr
The meseta after Sahagún is a strange area. Hundreds of pilgrims disappear, only to mysteriously reappear in León. We were glad of some (almost) pilgrim free time on the 18 kilometers to El Burgo Ranero.  The day was cool and clear, but with a 20-30 kph headwind.  In 2001, this was a hot and boring stage, but more than 4,000 trees had been recently planted about 10 meters apart the entire way.  They have now grown, so today it is lovely dappled shady path with rest spots every so often.  The trees attract nesting birds, and ranas (frogs) croak from marshes beside the road.

We remember El Burgo Ranero well.  Here, 13 years ago, our friend Andrew was forced to retire injured with a fractured foot. Back then we arrived exhausted and the only Albergue was full so we 3 slept on the floor under a table.

Day 38 Tue 29 Apr
El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas – 19 kilometers, no need to search for Camino shells or yellow arrows to find the way out of town just look for the line of trees leading off into the distance – 100 meters in today’s fog. As well as the shade trees, about every kilometer or so there are places to sit and picnic tables. It’s nice. At Reliegos, old bodegas built into the hillside and used to store wine once abandoned are now being restored. Mansilla de las Mulas is one of those wonderful old towns that still exist in Spain, relatively unspoilt.

Day 39 Wed 30 Apr
From Mansilla de las Mulas to León – another day, another 19 kilometers. It was the warmest day in a long time. This stretch is a bit tedious; none of the pilgrims had any oomph today. We had to make up stories about the other pilgrims to pass the time, thankful the Way has been changed to a dirt road parallel to the very busy highway. We have an apartment in León, very close to the cathedral, for 2 days so we can rest, wash our clothes and cook some food.