Day 44 Mon 05 May
From Astorga at 873 meters to Rabanal del Camino at 1149 meters it is a steady climb with many pilgrims.  The flat lands of the mesata are behind us now. Although snow was visible on the mountains, it was a very warm day. Rabanal was, and still is, a strategic point where pilgrims gathered to confront the mountains ahead.  In the middle ages they were protected by the Knights Templar.  Today Rabanal is a lovely stone village.

Murias de Rechivaldo - 18th century church

The Way after Astorga

Santa Catalina de Somoza

Santiago 249

El Ganso

Many pilgrims today

Street of Rabanal - dry stone walls

Water fountain in Rabanal de Camino

12th century Romanesque Santa María in Rabanal

Day 45 Tue 06 May
A glorious days walk across the mountains full of wildflowers with a gradual climb followed by a steep descent. 300 meters up, 300 meters down – 16 kilometers to the beautiful Bierzo stone village of El Acebo (pop 15) where we stayed at Casa Rosa del Agua a beautiful traditional Bierzo stone house. Today was cool and overcast.

Cruz de Ferro at 1500 meters - pilgrims have been putting stones here since 1530

Pam putting our stone, brought from home, at the Cross

Thomas's peculiar refugio on The Way down

Snow covered mountains

Mobile coffee shop

Wildflowers on the mountains

The path into El Acebo

El Acebo

La Rosa del Agua, traditional Bierzo house with slate roof, exposed stone walls and wooden beams

Day 46 Wed 07 May
What happened to yesterday’s hundreds? Today was tranquil on the Camino,we saw less than a dozen other Peregrino on the 16 kilometer walk to Ponferrada. Weather cool and clear, warming as we descended the 650 meters. We are now in the fruit and grape growing region of Beirzo. Ponferrada has a spectacular and well preserved Knights Templar’s Castle dating from the 12th century, but go one street back and the buildings are decaying, some abandoned and all covered with crude grafitti.

Today's wildflowers

Molinaseca

18th century, built into the cliffs outside Molinaseca

Medieval bridge at Molinaseca

Vinyaords of El Bierzo

Another pair of discarded boots

Village house

Medieval Puente Mascarón approaching Ponferrada

Castle of the Knights Templars, 12th - 14th centuries, Ponferrada

Basilica Nuestra Señora de la Encina, 16th century

Graffiti covered chapel at Ponferrada (the religious mural untouched)

Day 47 Thu 08 May
A very pleasant days walk through the small market gardens until Camponaraya where we were tempted by a morning wine when passing the local winery. Then continued through the vineyards to Cacabelos, 16 kilometers for the day.

Ermite San Blas at Columbrianos

Stork looking after its young

Farmers ploughing

Poppies follow the sun

Old house shows traditional building methods

Woman heading out to work the fields

Santiago on a house

Church at Fuente Nuevas with its covered bell verandah

Bodega Viñas del Bierzo, perfect stop for morning wine

Morning vino & tapa at Viñas de Bierzo

Vineyards of Mencía grapes used for the local red wine

San Roche in the chapel at Cacabelos

Cacabelos - Sanctuary of the Virgen of the Angustias, 18th century Baroque

Day 48 Fri 09 May
Instead of taking a day off we walked an easy 9 kilometers to the lovely pueblo of Villafranca del Bierzo, taking the old Camino via Valtuille de Arriba. A glorious day meandering along dirt roads between the rows of Mencía grapes used to make the region’s red wines. Legend has it that a French pilgrim, many years ago, planted a cutting of Cabernet Franc which became naturalized in El Bierzo to become Mencía. Villafranca del Bierzo is a lovely town, perfect for a half day. The town’s motto is “the art is the street” and there are many well preserved old buildings to admire. Such was its importance that in the 15th century, any sick pilgrim who entered the Church of Santiago in Villafranca by the door Puerta del Pedrón was given the same indulgence by the Pope as if he had completed the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela Cathedral itself.

Mencía vines in El Bierzo

Old house in the small village of Valtuille de Arriba

Approaching Villafranca de Bierzo

Castle of the Marques of Villafranca, 16th century

Church of Santiago, classic Romanesque 12 th century

Puerta del Perdón in the Church of Santiago

Convent of San Nicholas, 16th century

San Francisco, Gothic 13th century, Villafranca

Santa María, 16th century

Day 49 Sat 10 May
An easy 17 kilometer walk gradually uphill following the river to Vega de Valcarce (pop 250). We enjoyed a trout from the river for lunch.

We followed the Valcarce River all day

The pueblo of Ambasmestas, now below the motorway

Pam enjoys a Galician white and tapas in Vega

Castillo de Sarracin, 11th century, near Vega