Day 37 Mon 28 Apr
The meseta after Sahagún is a strange area. Hundreds of pilgrims disappear, only to mysteriously reappear in León. We were glad of some (almost) pilgrim free time on the 18 kilometers to El Burgo Ranero. The day was cool and clear, but with a 20-30 kph headwind. In 2001, this was a hot and boring stage, but more than 4,000 trees had been recently planted about 10 meters apart the entire way. They have now grown, so today it is lovely dappled shady path with rest spots every so often. The trees attract nesting birds, and ranas (frogs) croak from marshes beside the road.
We remember El Burgo Ranero well. Here, 13 years ago, our friend Andrew was forced to retire injured with a fractured foot. Back then we arrived exhausted and the only Albergue was full so we 3 slept on the floor under a table.
Mud house of Bercianos del Real Camino
Ermita outside Bercianos del Real Camino
13 years ago these were saplings - thousands were planted to provide shade
Marshes beside the path are full of frogs, you can hear them croaking
El Burgo Ranero's water tower
El Burgo Ranero, still a quiet little village (no it's not siesta)
Albergue at El Burgo Ranero - we slept on the floor in 2001
Albergue La Laguna - closest we've come to a refugio this time
This is where the ranas (frogs) live at Burgo Ranero
Day 38 Tue 29 Apr
El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas – 19 kilometers, no need to search for Camino shells or yellow arrows to find the way out of town just look for the line of trees leading off into the distance – 100 meters in today’s fog. As well as the shade trees, about every kilometer or so there are places to sit and picnic tables. It’s nice. At Reliegos, old bodegas built into the hillside and used to store wine once abandoned are now being restored. Mansilla de las Mulas is one of those wonderful old towns that still exist in Spain, relatively unspoilt.
Restored Bodgea at Reliegos
Pilgrims before the shade trees beside the path grew
Mansilla de las Mulas city walls
Entrance to Mansilla de las Mulas for pilgrims on the Roman road
Mansilla de las Mulas has always been a market town
Ermita de la Virgen de Gracia
Street, Mansilla de las Mulas
Mansilla de las Mulas - tradicional house
San Roche in Iglesia Santa María
Two lions that share one head on Iglesia San Martin
Day 39 Wed 30 Apr
From Mansilla de las Mulas to León – another day, another 19 kilometers. It was the warmest day in a long time. This stretch is a bit tedious; none of the pilgrims had any oomph today. We had to make up stories about the other pilgrims to pass the time, thankful the Way has been changed to a dirt road parallel to the very busy highway. We have an apartment in León, very close to the cathedral, for 2 days so we can rest, wash our clothes and cook some food.
The old and the new bridges - Puente de Villarente
Chapel on The Way
Stork with 3 babies on the Chapel bell tower
Spring flowers
Camino signs in León
Approaching León
Footpath waymarks in León