We finished Camino del Cid The Borderlands in Calatayud, a mix of shabby and fabulous – World Heritage interspersed with empty plots and partly demolished houses; this is because of the soluble terrain the city is built on. It is a historical-artistic site of Mudejar architecture which developed in the 12th century from the particular political, social and cultural conditions that existed in Spain after the Reconquista. Influenced by Islamic tradition, it is characterized by refined and inventive use of brick and glazed tiles.
Calatayud (pop 19,500) was founded by the Arabs in 716 as a military enclave and became a first-rate fortress protected by 5 castles. It appears in the Cantar de mio Cid: After El Cid conquers nearby Alcocer, the Muslim king of Valencia sends an army of 3,000 knights which El Cid defeats. One of their generals, wounded in the head, takes refuge in Calatayud Castle.
El Cid pursued the wounded Muslim general to the Terrer Gate (rebuilt in 1580)World Heritage Santa María almost hidden by partly demolished housesIn the 16th century, a Renaissance portal was added to the Church of Santa María Octagonal tower of San Andres Church, highly decorative Mudejar brickworkMural of the 3 civilisations of Calatayud: Jewish, Moorish and Christian Calatayud was built over soluble gypsum, Plaza de España building subsidenceMarket at the Basilica of Santo Sepulcro, the current church built in 1605Flanked on both sides by more than 200 trees linked together by their branches This promenade is popular for drinks and tapas in the eveningsRemains of the main Castle (Ayud) that protected Calatayud, located on the highest hill and built by Muslims in the 9th centuryRuins of Doña Martina Castle, largest of the five fortresses in CalatayudStork with her baby nesting on the old city wallsCastillo de la Torremocha, a Muslim fortress from the 11th century with partly preserved wallsLooking down on Calatayud from the Jewish quarter 17th century Church of San Juan el Real was formerly the Jesuit college Its tower was built later, in the 1770’s, in the Mudejar styleThe fabulous: the Mudejar towers of Santa María and San AndresOur Salvoconductos (Safe-conduct Pass) with the stamps and buttons of the different towns we passed through in The Borderlands
Last year we walked the 300 km “The Exile” section of the Camino del Cid, this year 280 km “The Borderlands” section. There’s still about 1,000 km to go. Next year we’ll be back to continue.
