We returned to Colombia by re positioning to the lovely little mountain village of Salento [15] in the middle of coffee country.  Trout is on the menu at every restaurant in town.  It is served on a plate sized, wafer thin crisp of mashed plantain called patacón (recipe).

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In the Valle de Cocora, on the steep green slopes, hundreds of wax palms rise majestically out of the mist to some 60 metres.  These palms, the tallest in the world, are the national tree of Colombia.  They are slow growing and live over 100 years.  Once facing extinction, they are now protected.

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