Aguascalientes [26] was called the Perforated City by the Spanish when they arrived here in 1575 because of the many unexplained catacombs, not open to the public today. The 18th century Baroque cathedral which sits on one side of the large Plaza de la Patria is just one of the many colonial churches in the city. The Museum of Death shows Mexico´s interest in death right back to pre-Hispanic times.

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San Luis Potosí [27], an important silver mining town in colonial times was founded in 1592. It was named after the fabulously rich Potosí in Bolivia and its patron saint is Saint Louis, King of France from 1234 to 1270. The Spanish laid out a grid town plan with many parks and plazas. Today it is a delight with most of the historic centre pedestrianised. Many churches and beautiful public buildings from the 17th to 19th centuries remain in use.

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… as displayed in the Museum of Death in Aguascalientes

Here is a short movie of Las Morismas de Bracho 2011 in Zacatecas.

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We timed our arrival in Zacatecas [28] for the annual Traditionales Morismas de Bracho, re-enactments of battles between the Moors and Christians from old Spain, performed here for over 300 years. More than 11,000 people dressed in medieval attire paraded through the streets before battling it out over 3 days on a nearby hillside until the Christians finally claim victory.  Click here for a short video of the parade.

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Zacatecas, in the north central highlands at 2400 metres was once an important silver mining town and is well deserving of its World Heritage status. Attractive pink stone buildings and churches with ornate church bell towers and domes line the streets of the colonial heart. From the lovely central Hotel Terrasse we could cover all the sights on foot.

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In the ruins of the Convent of San Francisco, the Museo Rafael Coronel displays over 3000 ritual masks, dating from pre-Hispanic to contemporary, from all over Mexico.

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Here is a short movie from the Mariachi Festival 2011 in Guadalajara.

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The Mexican hat dance and mariachis come from Guadalajara [29], Mexico´s second largest city – founded in 1542 in the Western Highlands of the country. Colonial stone mansions, churches and government offices in the historic centre stand amidst graffiti covered derelict buildings. We stayed about 6 blocks north of the centre at Las Sabilas, a hotel owned by an expatriate American garden designer. The wonderful garden with hummingbirds feeding on the flowers was a haven from the busy streets.  It happened that the annual Mariachi Festival was on, so we caught a free performance outside the Cathedral.  Click here for a short video.
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Carne en su jugo, meat served in its own juice, is the culinary specialty here. We enjoyed it at Karnes Garibaldi while listening to mariachis. Torta ahogada, pork sandwich drowned in chilli sauce is also popular.
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Rows of blue agave plants grow around the village of Tequila where the famous drink is made. After an interesting tour of the fields and factory we got to try the various finished products – clear, aged a little, aged a lot, and margaritas. Next day we headed out to Lake Chapala, the largest lake in México. Many North Americans are retired at the pretty lake side village of Ajijic. Tlaquepaque, about 10 k from Guadalajara is another colourful village, now absorbed into Guadalajara but with its own history and artisans.
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Toilet signs in the pueblo of Tequila

At over 2000 metres the Pueblo Mágico, Pátzcuaro [30] lies south of the mountain fringed Lake Pátzcuaro. The bustling centre is all red and white adobe buildings with terracotta tiled roofs, colonial churches and pretty plazas. A busy market, where local food is cheap and good, spills out onto the streets. A huge plate of chicken with potatoes, carrots, cheese and tortillas smothered in sauce, more than enough for 2, is less than $10. Pátzcuaro is one of our favourite Mexican pueblos.

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The small Purepécha villages that dot the lake each produce a different handicraft such as pottery, wooden masks and fine needlework, their wares displayed outside to attract passersby. Vasco de Quiroga (1478-1565) established these crafts and did much to protect the indigenous from the worst abuses of the Conquistadores. Today he is revered. Janitzio is the largest of the islands in Lake Pátzcuaro where the men use large butterfly-nets to fish from small wooden boats.

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We took a local bus to Uruapan, an hour from Pátzcuaro, to visit the National Park which is in the centre of the town. Water gushes from underground creating a lush rainforest environment, home to many species of plants, animals, birds and butterflies. Trout raised in the streams and covered with macadamia nuts made a delicious lunch. In the town is the first hospital in the Americas, with doorways and windows carved by Purepécha artisans in the Mudéjar style 4 centuries ago.

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Here is a short movie of La Danza de Los Viejos (The Dance of the Old Men) performed in the main Plaza in Morelia.  (You can watch it Full Screen by clicking on the arrows in the bottom right hand corner).

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Morelia [31], capital of Michoacán state, was founded in 1541. Originally Valladolid, it was renamed after the Mexican War of Independence (1810–1821). Buildings in the historic centre are all of an attractive light brown stone, the magnificent cathedral being the centre piece. Morelia is a university town and the faculties now occupy many of the former monasteries. Arched arcades surround the large Plaza de Armas – “The entire plaza (of all Hispanic-American cities) should have portals because they offer much comfort …” ordered King Philip II of Spain (1527-1598).

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It was impossible to pass through the Mercado de Dulces (sweets market) without buying something. Also delicious is a local fruit salad, gaspacho, which is served with chilli, lime juice and salt. Chamorro, another culinary specialty, is slow cooked pork shank in a rich black sauce of dried chillies with pulque (a type of beer made from cactus) – falling-off-the-bone, melt-in-the-mouth delicious.

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Leafy parks, sprouting fountains, and even a 253 arch aqueduct make the city a great place for strolling. We were delighted to encounter a performance of La Danza de Los Viejos (The Dance of the Old Men) in the main Plaza. In reality, the “Old Men” are young boys in costume. Here is a short video.

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The Hollywood movie “Once Upon a Time in México” (2003) was filmed in charming San Miguel de Allende [32]. A Franciscan friar, Juan de San Miguel founded the city that bears his name in 1542. It is now World Heritage. With bougainvillea tumbling down the muted multi-coloured houses that crawl up the hill side, cobbled streets, a bull ring and clear blue skies it is the classic Mexican colonial town. No wonder thousands of expatriates, mainly US retirees have settled here.

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We arrived on a Sunday afternoon to find the central plaza packed, a band playing salsa, folks dancing and food carts doing a roaring trade. The Jardín Botánico, 30 minutes walk from town, has over 1000 species of cactus. Many birds and butterflies are attracted to the flowers growing there. The Santuario de Atotonilco is a World Heritage Site, built in the 18th century. The interior is a real surprise, adorned with rich Mexican Baroque murals. It´s about 20 minutes by taxi from San Miguel and an immensely important pilgrimage site for Mexicans.

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Colibrí – Hummingbird – in action

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