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The Jesuit Missions (Bolivia)
30th May 2010
The Jesuits arrived in eastern Bolivia (Chiquitania) in 1691 aiming to convert, civilize and educate the indigenous people in a harmonious social environment. San Xavier was the first mission, followed by 10 others until the Jesuits were expelled from South America in 1767.
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In a week we travelled a circuit of some 1000 kilometres by train, buses and taxis from Santa Cruz to visit 8 former Jesuit Missions with centuries old restored churches. The region has been declared a Unesco World Heritage site, not only for its churches, but also for the rich indigenous culture.
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All the churches feature huge, artistically hewn wooden columns supporting exposed timber beams and wood or cane ceilings. The white washed adobe walls are covered inside and out with elaborate decoration, painted in ochre, yellow and black. Mirrors near ground level on the altars taught the heathens how to bow down to God. The churches all face beautiful plazas, the other 3 sides are lined with colonial buildings, their terracotta tiled roofs overhanging the sidewalks are supported by carved wooden columns. One block away the streets are dirt.
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San José de Chiquitos was founded in 1698. Its beautifully restored church complex, the only one to be built in stone, consists of 4 buildings, taking up an entire city block. Nearby the church of Santiago de Chiquitos, 1754, bears images of the Santiago pilgrim. The mission of San Ignacio de Velasco was founded in 1748. San Miguel dates from 1721, San Rafael from1696. Santa Ana mission, although established in 1755, has a humble church which was built after the Jesuit expulsion of 1767. The Concepción mission was founded in1709 and San Xavier in 1691.
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