Day 31 Tue 22 Apr
Leaving Hornillos del Camino on a cold overcast morning, we were surprised to find ourselves alone on the Camino. Cool weather and a fine dirt track made for easy and quick walking. We stopped in Hontanas hoping to see the old man drinking wine by poring it on his forehead, but he has retired. After Hontanas a lovely footpath bought us to Castrojeriz, where we ate a wonderful home cooked meal and were introduced to the delicious white Verdejo of Ruedo. 21 kilometers.
Day 32 Wed 23 Apr
Soon after Castrojeriz we crossed an ancient stone bridge, now in the middle of a field as the river has changed course; then a steep climb to the flat treeless plains. After an hour so, in the middle of nowhere we could smell coffee. An enterprising man had set up a stall behind a stone wall; great coffee too. A short day today, 12 kilometers into a strong cold wind to Itero de la Vega.