It was an easier day today, the first part a delightful level walk through a eucalyptus forest. Then climbing towards Ella Rock with extensive views, well if it wasn’t cloudy and downhill to Ella Train Station (9.6 klm, 3:30)
The next stage begins in Ella. The walk passes the famous Nine Arches Bridge crowded with selfie snappers. The trail meanders along a tea path through Demodara Tea Estate to arrive at Demodara Station (10.6 klm, 3:30)
Delightful walk through eucalypt forest (Hiran photo)Thankful for a helping handA stall on the track selling fruit, juices and drinks Wild peacock in a treeRailway line is the roadRailway workers having smokoKithal Ella FallsElla Railway Station Busy, chaotic Ella with Ella Rock behindThe crowded 9 Arches Bridge today At the time of construction in World War I, steel assigned for the bridge was reallocated to British war projects, and the beautiful bridge was built with stoneA photo of the 9 Arches Bridge that I took in 2013 – we were the only ones there then“Turban Track” – Demodara Loop opened in 1923, this unique railway line spirals around a hill, designed in the shape of a turban to solve a difficult elevation issueDemodara Railway Station, end of Stage 15Yellow ground orchid
We transferred to Demodara from our hotel at Hali-ela and walked back, gradually ascending and descending through tea estates. Ayesh returned to guide us.
We’re using the Railway View Villa at Hali Ela as a base for Stages 16, 17 & 18, staying 3 nightsView of the Railway from the Railway View VillaEgg hoppers for breakfast Hali Ela Station Master passes the Token to the train driver granting authority to proceed to the next station on a single track lineWe’re back in tea countryThe Pass Road isn’t used anymore but it remains in good condition Resting in the Pass at 1189 meters after climbing from Demodara at 898 meters in 6 kilometres Beautiful butterfly feeding on flowersWalking through a Stage 17 tea workers’ village serving the Rosette EstateAustralian Silky Oak trees provide dappled shade for the teaTea pluckers bring their loads to the Tea Factory Our favourite Sri Lankan fried snacks They bring an assortment and you pay for what you eatHali-ela Railway Station, end of Stage 17Dinner at Railway View Villa – Ravindra serves rice with 5 curries every night
Stage 18 is reported as Advanced Difficult Challenging. We took a bus to Ettampitiya, 20 minutes. Walking the Stage in reverse, it’s a scenic and easy downhill walk from 1250m to 750m mostly on roads and tea estate paths with two steep staircases. Thankfully Ayesh took us around the overgrown leech sections.
View from EttampitiyaThis is a different, paler species of Nelu found at a lower altitude, flowering only ever 12 yearsScaly-bellied WoodpeckerEndemic Layard’s ParakeetA long staircase downHindu Temple in the jungle Pruned trees to shade the tea plantsThe trail descends to rice paddies This man is reforming the terraces surrounded by Cattle Egrets hunting crabsIndian Pond Herron appears white when it fliesPlanting rice
Returned to Ettampitiya by TukTuk to continue with Stage 19. This is the longest Stage of the Pekoe Trail and it rained all day, quite enjoyable walking in soft rain although we missed the vistas.
The first half is a descent from 1250 meters to 870 meters crossing Uma Oya River via a suspension bridge. Then a climb up to Lunuwatte at 1080 meters.
We started in heavy cloud at EttampitiyaWalking in soft rainFlame lily, particularly roots, are poisonous In the past people with unsustainable debt would eat them to commit suicideCows being herded up the roadWoman taking morning tea to her husband working in the fields Tea plucking doesn’t stop just because it’s raining We were hoping the rain was stopping, but noA long staircase to descendWoman moving bags of sandCrossing the Uma River suspension bridge, opened 1939, with AyeshWe stopped for tea at this roadside tea houseMaking our tea, a welcome relief whilst walking in the rainOne of Pam’s leechesA good path through a tea estateStage 19 finishes at Lunuwatte
We were driven up to Uda Pussellawa at 1285 meters to walk Stage 20 in reverse planning on taking advantage of the views on the descent back to Lunuwatte. In thick wet cloud there was no view. The sun came out mid morning.
About 2 kilometres before the end of Stage we were invited for a meal to celebrate the opening of the new village community hall, a great privilege. From there we walked 2 kilometers back to our accommodation at Sapugolla Family Resort.
Starting at Uda Pussellawa in the rainWalking in heavy wet cloudThoughts, words and photo by Ayesh Buddhika Bee inside a Nelu flower Tickell’s blue flycatcherThe sun came out and lit up this Hindu TempleEntrance to the Sthripura Caves A cave network of a mythical incident where King Walagamba (77 BC) hid 500 queens in this cave in order to protect themIn the area of the Caves, gum trees imported and planted centuries later, grow strange branches whereas the same trees elsewhere are tall and straightAbout 2 kilometres before the end of Stage we were invited for a meal to celebrate the opening of their new village community hall, a great privilegeMen preparing a huge pot of milk rice for the community Male Common Green Forest Lizard – bright orange and blue coloration on its head indicates it is currently in breeding seasonEgg hoppers for breakfast at Sapugolla Family Resort
Again we walked the Stage in reverse, easier and better views going down the hills.
We took a bus from end of Stage to Nuwara Eliya to spend the night.
Hanging out the washing Cow trimming the tea plantsThe finest tea comes from the high altitude (~2000m) estates due to the daily misting from clouds Tea growing down into the valleyVegetable gardens at 1700mCasuarina forest to stabilise the hillsides and produce timber for fuelYellow-bellied bulbulLovely path through a tea estateTea plants have very deep rootsNuwara Eliya Post Office built in 1894 during British colonial rule, featuring distinctive Tudor-revival architectureFull moon is a public holiday – there are 40 public holidays every year in Sri Lanka
Our last day was shorter and easier. The day was cloudy with some periods of light rain.
The other side of Adam’s Peak where we were two weeks agoCurious onlookers at the start of Stage 22Patchwork of market gardensTea pluckers stretching up the hillTwo men tending their leek garden beside the pathHindu temple under construction Woman cooking sweet rice for the field workers She gave us a taste – delicious This area is known as the Misty Mountain Destination in sight – Pedro Tea FactoryThanks to Ayesh and the other Pekoe Trail guides we made it to the end of the Pekoe Trail 22 Stages 323 kilometres in 20 daysAyesh presented us with this framed photograph
