Camino del Cid

Huerta de Rey to Peñaranda de Duero

Wednesday 28 September 2022

Distance: 14.6 km (from Coruña del Conde) Time: 3:50 Ascent: 80m Descent: 110m – Wikiloc

The Camino del Cid stage for today would by 37 kilometers, too much for us so we decided to deviate to Peñaranda de Duero by taking the morning bus to Coruña del Conde and walking from there. In any case we’d previously been to Langa de Duero (click here). We found a way to avoid the main road and walked via farm tracks.

Coruña del Conde (pop 112) is a small village but it has two Roman bridges and a castle.

Old city gate of medieval origin
Church of San Martin, 16th century, built with contributions from the Americas
We could smell the wine fermenting in the bodegas built into the hill below the 10th century Coruña del Conde Castle
Romanesque Santo Cristo de San Sebastián
This Roman bridge linked Coruña del Conde to the Roman city of Clunia
We saw a farmer taking his sheep to feed outside the small village of Arandilla
Little purple flowers growing out of the ground on the farm track
We are now in the Ribera del Duero wine region

Peñaranda de Duero (pop 472) is a Historic-Artistic Site, a Pueblo Magico with walls, buildings, streets and squares of the Renaissance and Baroque. It is a beautiful town and strangely deserted with only a handful of tourists, one restaurant open for lunch and one bar which opened at 7pm.

Our first sighting of Peñaranda de Duero
There was a castle in the time of El Cid, replaced by the current 15th century one
City walls
Entrance to the main plaza with 16th century Palace of the Counts of Miranda
A street in the historic centre
Construction of the Santa Ana Church began in 1540 and lasted 2 centuries
The Church tower from outside the city walls
For lunch (and dinner) we had local setas (wild mushrooms), bacalao (dried, salted cod) with the village Ribera del Duero wine made with grapes from 80 year old vines. A great meal in a great restaurant.
The chef gives us some of his home-made liquor as a reward for Pam translating for an English family