Camino del Cid

Burgos to Modúbar de San Cibrián

Wednesday 21 September 2022

Distance: 18.9 km Time: 6:00 (including 1:30 at Monasterio) Ascent: 240m Descent: 160m – Wikiloc

We left Burgos on a cool clear morning for a steady climb through fields and forests most of the way to Modúbar de San Cibrián.

Cortes (pop 870) is a small town about 4 km from Burgos,
Murals on the Municipal building depict scenes from El Cantar de mio Cid
The wheat harvest is finished and sunflowers are almost ready
Path between Cortes and Monasterio de San Pedro de Cardeña

El Cid left his wife and daughters at the Monasterio de San Pedro de Cardeña when he was forced into exile. The remains of El Cid and his wife Jimena rested here for centuries (1102 to 1921).

Luckily we arrived in time for a 60 minute guided tour by a resident monk. We were looking forward to a bottle of Valdevegón, the wine that the monks age in the barrels of their old cellar but their store is closed on Wednesdays.

Monasterio de San Pedro de Cardeña, founded 899
Statue of El Cid similar to the images of Santiago Matamoros (St James slaying Moors) on the facade of the Monastery
15th century abbey Church with an 11th century Romanesque tower behind where Jimena waited for El Cid’s return
Sarcophagus of El Cid and Lady Jimena (16th century)
El Cid and Jimena look down on their sarcophagi
Martyrs Cloister, 12th century with red sandstone in the arches similar to the Mosque in Cordoba

Modúbar de San Cibrián (pop 64) existed at the time of El Cid and it’s assumed he passed through here. It was a pleasant place to spend the night and we enjoyed the homemade food at La Cerca de Doña Jimena. The owner told us we’re the third Australians to visit here in the Last 20 years!

Modúbar de San Cibrián is made up of low houses with one or two floors
Ermita de La Divina Providencia, typical construction of this area
Town fountain uses sarcophagi from the old monastery to channel water
Church of San Pedro Apóstol, from the 17th century dominates the village