We were sitting in our bus stop having breakfast when a car henro stopped to chat. He left us with oranges and some hand painted post cards of henro walking.
We continued, snaking up the ever-narrowing valley beside the river, ascending gradually.
We had been told we could go to Temple 45 first, then Temple 44 but a woman came out of her house while we were resting and was adamant that we go to number 44 first, making closed gestures with her arms. Thinking she meant the road was closed ahead, we followed her advice. She gave us Y400 each as osettai.
As the gradient got steeper our pace slowed, eventually to 2 kph to cross a 790metre pass.
We descended to Kuma-kogen Town, where we put the tent up in a park opposite the Kuma Museum of Art.
(33.6636 N 132.9076 E)