Antarctic Christmas

28th December 2009

After 2 years of planning and saving we finally embarked on our Christmas voyage to the Antarctic peninsula.

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The weather and waves were kind to us as we crossed the infamous Drake Passage.  The Polar Pioneer with 51 passengers made good time and in 2 days we were able to make a landing on one of the islands of the South Shetland group.  We were greeted by colonies of noisy Chinstrap and Gentoo penguins who carried on as usual, some guarding eggs on rocky nest while the curious ones walked right up close for a better look.  We were lucky enough to glimpse a chick when its parent stood to change position, and 2 juveniles practicing the ritual of mating.  On each return to the ship we had to carefully scrub the penguin poo off our boots before we were allowed back inside.

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In more sheltered waters we were able to have many kayak excursions of 2 to 3 hours to see close up the huge ice bergs, ice cliffs, glaciers and wildlife.  We soon got used to donning all the warm clothing and dry suits before each outing.  We saw many humpback whales from the ship but the highlight was seeing one close to the kayak.  It was always cold, sometimes with an icy wind blowing and snow falling.

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One evening we were treated to a barbecue on the back  deck surrounded by snowy mountains.  Those brave enough had the opportunity to sleep one night ashore out in the open on the Antarctic ice while the ship moved away to more sheltered waters.  What magnificent surroundings we had.  During the night we were joined by a few penguins and 2 seals.  The sun never set.

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After a lovely Christmas lunch aboard ship inside the caldera of the Deception Island volcano, we began the 2 day journey back across the Drake Passage.  Our Russian captain looked at the weather chart and warned us of what was ahead – ¨big waves, rock and roll, sleep on floor¨.  The sea doors were closed and we were confined to the inside of the ship.  We could only watch from the bridge as huge waves crashed over the bow.  Many passengers lost their lunch.  It was a great relief to finally spot Cape Horn and return to the more sheltered waters of the Beagle Channel.

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From the bridge on the Polar Pioneer

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A pair of Gentoo Penguins

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Baby chick emerging from under the parent

Juveniles practicing

Juveniles practicing

Gentoos

Gentoos

Marching down to the sea

Marching down to the sea

Inquisitive penguin

Inquisitive penguin

Kayaking towards an iceberg

Kayaking towards an iceberg

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Santa arrives by kayak

Santa arrives by kayak

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In the slush

In the slush

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Three chinstrap penguins

Three chinstrap penguins

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Chinstrap on a rocky nest

Chinstrap on a rocky nest

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Two lone Adaile Penguins on an iceberg

Two lone Adaile Penguins on an iceberg

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Birds resting on an iceberg

Birds resting on an iceberg

Lemaire Channel

Lemaire Channel

Barbeque on the aft deck

Barbeque on the aft deck ...

... surrounded by mountains and snow

... surrounded by mountains and snow

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Whaler´s Bay was an old whaling port on Deception Island

Whaler´s Bay was a whaling port on Deception Island

Hanger at Whaler´s Bay

Disused hanger at Whaler´s Bay

Old whale oil barrels rotting in the sand

Old whale oil barrels rotting in the sand

Old water boat

Old water boat

Whale bones in the sand at Whaler´s Bay

Whale bones in the sand at Whaler´s Bay

Penguins looking at the seal

Penguins looking at the seal

Skua

Skua

Pam and the penguins

Pam and the penguins

Sleeping out on the Antarctic ice

Sleeping out on the Antarctic ice

Two cormorants preening

Two cormorants preening

Whale´s blow

Whale´s blow

Whale seen from the kayak

Whale seen from the kayak

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Xmas 2009 on the Polar Pioneer

Xmas 2009 on the Polar Pioneer

Drake Passage - big waves, rock and roll, sleep on floor

Drake Passage - big waves, rock and roll, sleep on floor

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