Andalucia

Pueblos Blancos – Week 2

Our first week walking the Pueblos Blancos of the Cádiz province took us from Olvera to Setenil, El Gastor and Zahara de la Sierra. This week – Grazalema, El Bosque, Ubrique, Benaocaz, Villaluenga del Rosario, Montejaque and on to Ronda.

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Map of the White Villages


Grazalema  POP 2200, ALT 810m
03 & 04 Oct 2015


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Wild goats in the mountains between Zahara and Grazalema

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Dominated by the rocky outcrop Peñon Grande, pretty Grazalema

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Blood and Love in the Mountains Festival - a recreation of the events of 1832

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15,000 people from all over Spain descended on the village for the weekend

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Locals dressed as bandoleros wander the streets on horseback ...

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... and in a recreated 19th century village

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Making migas - fried bread, garlic, chorizo & peppers - a longtime staple

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Fountain of Pontezuela (Visigoth) one of Andalusia's most beautiful

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The magnificent lower fountain with 8 spouts & a single sink brings water to ...

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... the public laundry, still in use

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The medieval road will take us away from Grazalema


El Bosque  POP 2100, ALT 300m
05 Oct 2015


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Benamahoma's small bullring & church share a common wall

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A lovely hike from Benamahoma to El Bosque along the river ...

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... that provides fresh local trout - what we came to El Bosque for


Ubrique  POP 16900, ALT 330m
06 Oct 2015


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It was raining as we descended into Ubrique

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This is what you look like after 15k walking in the rain on a busy road

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Main plaza, Ubrique after the rain

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Man drinking from 18th century fountain on the plaza

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Houses in Ubrique old town

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Gañotes, a delicious local biscuit - hand made, freshly baked


Villaluenga del Rosario  POP 500, ALT 870m
07 Oct 2015


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After 5k uphill on Roman Road ...

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... we needed to recharge at the cafe in Benaocaz

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Milk from mountain sheep ...

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... and the native goats ...

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... makes the award winning Payoyo cheeses in the small village of Villaluenga

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Villaluenga was our favorite small White Village

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Plaza de Toros, Villaluenga, made from stone and with a unique octagonal floor

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Villaluenga village soup - chorizo, egg & bread in broth made from bones


Montejaque  POP 1000, ALT 680m
08 & 09 Oct 2015


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On the GR7 and off the road - 19k & a wonderful days walking ...

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... through the cork trees ...

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... and down to the high plains ...

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... and then up a rough track to the pass following the dirty rocks

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Looking back as we climbed in the morning shade

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Flower growing in the rocks

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Spotted a Griffon Vulture flying low overhead

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Twisted Acorn trees on the plains

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Descending through the Canyon ...

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... to arrive into Montejaque - original houses built in to the cliff

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Main plaza Montejaque - C16th Church of Santiago, reconstructed C18th

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Benaoján, another White Village, a couple of k from Montejaque

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Extensive caves, 6k from Montejaque, have Stone Age paintings from 25,000 years ago & beautiful stalactites and stalagmites (no photos permitted, this is a copy)

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The old path to Ronda zigzags up and up ...

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... giving us a final glimpse of Montejaque in the early morning ...