Andalucia

La Alpujarra – Lanjarón to Pitres

The Alpujarra is a region in Andalucía lying south-east of Granada on the southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada and with an average elevation of 1,300 meters. Its 52 villages, which still display their Berber origins today, were the last stronghold of the Moors, finally expelled in 1568.

Our plan – to walk from Lanjarón on the western edge to Laroles in the east following the GR7 footpath. Click here for a map if the GR7 in Granada.


Lanjarón to Soportújar 12.4 klms, 5 hours

What a day. We climbed steeply, crossed high plains where we picked wild herbs, the village of Orgiva visible in the valley far below. In the bar at the halfway pueblo, Cañar, we discovered a local author had written the book El Cartero del Desierto (The Desert Postman) so Pam bought a copy.

We could see Soportújar across the valley but it was still a 2 hour hike away along a narrow, centuries old path to the head of the valley and back. Soportújar calls itself Lugar de Embrujo (Enchanted Place) – a lovely small village; so steep that houses are built over roads. Enchanted for sure, Paco the owner of Apartamentos La Huerta where we stayed bought us olive oil from his trees outside our windows and a bottle of his own delicious wine from his grape vines below. The overhanging balcony gave us spectacular views of the pueblos below with the mountains behind.

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Sunrise leaving Antequera

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Moorish Castillo de Lanjarón

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Lanjarón is a leafy town, famed since Roman times for its water

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Climbing out of Lanjarón

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Looking back at Lanjarón

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Gathering chestnuts

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The mountains smell of rosemary so we picked wild herbs for our breakfast omlette

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Cañar - we're halfway

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Fountain at Cañar - no bathing allowed

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Path to Soportújar

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Weir built to control erosion on the Chico River

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Path follows an old acequia (water channel)

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Soportújar

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Soportújar streets are so steep that the houses are built over them


Soportújar to Pitres 11.9 klms, 4 hours

Another great walk along some wonderful old paths, although overgrown in places – hard going too with over 900 meters of up and 600 meters of down. The trail took us through the prettiest of the villages, Pampaneira, onto Bubión and over a 1560m mountain pass before descending to Pitres.

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Carataunas hamlet 200 meters below Soportújar

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Along the trail to Pampaneira and Bubión on the next ridge

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It's chestnut season

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Old paved path down into Pampaneira but ...

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... overgrown in places

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Pampaneira - typical flat roofs and chimneys

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Street in Pampaneira, the prettiest of the villages

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Pampaneira is famous for its crafts

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Pampaneira church built over a mosque

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Another street in Pampaneira with houses built on top

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Terraces between Pampaneira and Bubión

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Path from Pampaneira to Bubión, a 300 meter climb

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Pam waiting patiently at Bubión

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Hope the water is OK to drink!

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Path to the 1560m pass

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Bubión from the pass

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Chimneys on the roof - Pitres

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Local Pitres wine - looks like cordial, tastes fine and packs a punch

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Alpujarreño lunch - ham, pork, eggs, potatoes and sausages


Walking around Pitres

Instead of spending the day walking around La Taha villages near Pitres as planned, we stayed inside in the warmth. It rained steadily all day.

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A wet day in Pitres - not much chance of drying those clothes!